Kraków
This city was the most charming, as well as the best preserved, of all the places we visited. No wonder it was also the most touristed. Being exhausted from a week of travel put a little damper on my spirits, but I still managed to do a lot during my short time here.
Day 7: Częstochowa, more vodka, & City Orientation
We jumped back on the bus, headed for our final city of the tour. On a bathroom and snack break, Monika offered us lemon vodka and fruit candies, and we toasted our bus driver, who had been with us since Gdańsk.
The church in Częstochowa houses the image of the Black Madonna, associated with miracles of many kinds. We were lucky enough to be present for the revelation of the image, when the golden door covering the Madonna is removed with great fanfare. I didn't know the Black Madonna previous to this trip, but I grew up venerating the image of the Virgin Mary at home (thanks, in large part, to my Filipino grandmother). So it felt really special to bear witness to this moment.
Kraków is Monika's hometown, and she took us on a quick orientation tour when we arrived. After days of gray drizzly skies, it was wonderfully sunny and almost too hot.
Heather, Christina, and I then treated ourselves to a fancy Polish dinner, recommended by Monika.
The Black Madonna
St. Mary's Church in the Market Square
Venison stew with potato pancakes
Day 8: Wawel Hill, Pierogi, & All That Jazz
Given that we were in her howntown, our local guide was Monika herself. We spent the morning learning about the history of the city and visited Wawel Hill, where we explored the castle and cathedral.
After lunch, we broke into smaller groups and were invited to a local home, so that we could learn to make pierogi. We stopped by a fresh market, then a small grocery store to pick up supplies, including flowers and local beer. We spent a lovely afternoon getting to know our host Anna at her delightful studio apartment, making pierogi stuffed with cheese and potatoes, as well as ones filled with local blueberries.
Anna checks the pierogi while Heather, Christina, and Mary look on.
Anna also told me that my Polish last name, which has changed as it traveled to the United States, means "goose." She also spelled it as it most likely looked in its original form.
Thank you, Anna, for a wonderful afternoon!
I ended my day with a visit to a speakeasy with my roommate Lisa. On our bus ride, Monika had mentioned that Kraków is known for its jazz. So I found a bar called Mercy Brown, serving creative drinks (the menu itself is a mood board) accompanied by live music. This night, a duo played keyboard and saxophone. It was a non-smoking venue, but I left with my hair smelling like the fragrant smoke used to give some cocktails various special effects.
Day 9: Communism, Souvenir Shopping, & Farewell Dinner
We spent the morning touring the Nowa Huta district, a planned workers' suburb which showcases Communist-era architecture. Over the course of our time together, Monika had shared many stories of growing up during communism. It really wasn't that long ago that communism was the reality in Poland and beyond.
Lord's Ark Church
We had a free afternoon, and the members of our group went in different directions. While I started out shopping for souvenirs by myself, I eventually ran into Heather, who accompanied me while I bought small pottery and gingerbread rolling pins to take home in my carry on. Now knowing what my last name means, she insisted I take a photo with the ubiquitous goose stuffy that hung from nearly every souvenir stall. (Apparently, it was a Tik Tok thing.)
Michael proposes a toast to Monika, who wore traditional folk clothing for the occasion.
It was our last full day of the tour, and it ended with a celebration. We enjoyed a multi course dinner, toasted each other with wine, and profusely thanked Monika for being a truly wonderful guide. We swapped stories of our highlights of the trip, exchanged contact info, and even made plans for future Rick Steves trips. I really didn't want our time together to be over — but good things must come to an end eventually.
Day 10: Goodbyes
Our group went our separate ways after breakfast. It was definitely a trip to remember. Not only was I headed home with a backpack filled with memories, I had made good friends. Christina, Heather, and I continue to text since the tour ended. I've seen them both separately since returning home, and we have upcoming plans to get together for a reunion weekend.
I hope this scrapbook inspires you to want to take the Best of Poland trip — or any of the many Rick Steves tours. Who knows? You might gain new perspectives, discover things about Europe you hadn't known before, or even meet your new best friends.
