Warsaw
Warszawa is more gritty and urban than the other spots we visited — but it has a lot of character in its rough edges. I wasn't sure how I felt about it at first, but it steadily grew on me during my stay.
Day 4 continued:
A Unique Hotel & Chopin Concert
Piano prodigy Fryderyk Chopin called Warsaw home for many years of his childhood. Our hotel, the Chopin Boutique, was peppered in his image, on posters and vintage advertisements. After another delightful traditional Polish dinner, at a neighborhood restaurant, our group went back for a private piano concert in the hotel's salon. We started with wine and chantilly cake. Then a young woman played a stunning presentation of Chopin's music, her hands flying over the piano keys. It felt really special to hear this music in such an intimate space.
The man himself
Day 5: City Tour, Old Town, & Street Art
After the best hotel breakfast buffet of the tour, we set out with our local guide into the city, to learn more about its history. We heard about Marie Skłodowska-Curie and famous men with equally famous mustaches, experienced a bench that plays Chopin, and found evidence of the ravages of Nazi occupation.
Mustache number two... or was it one?
Old Town
We had the rest of the day to ourselves. Christina and I headed over to the Praga district to check out the graffiti street art and murals. We weren't disappointed, finding plenty to look at over the course of several blocks.
My favorite breakfast of the entire tour.
Day 6: Jewish Museum, more Chopin, & Conversation, Music, and Camaraderie
We spent the morning at the Museum of the History of Polish Jews, learning about the experience of Jews in Poland over the centuries. It added another layer to my understanding of Polish history and its people.
Turns out I like sitting on thrones.
After some rain in the early afternoon, the sun broke through the clouds, just in time for the free Chopin concert in the park. A few of us went to sit on the grass (or on the edge of the pool, like I did) and enjoy the music.
Our group met back at the hotel for what was described as "happy hour and Q A session." We were greeted in the rear garden with glasses of bubbly, followed by a thoroughly interesting conversation with the hotel's owner, Jarek. Having spent some time in the U.S. in the past, he gave us a perspective on American politics in contrast to what has happened historically in Poland.
This was followed by a Ukranian dinner at the hotel's restaurant, accompanied by traditional Ukranian folk music. Jarek is a huge supporter of Ukranians in the war with Russia and has helped many refugees, including some who work at his hotel. He joined us at dinner, and our group bonded over stories and songs — including a rendition of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah" that we sang joyfully together (unfortunately interrupting the Chopin concert upstairs in the process!).
Jarek is quite the story-teller.
After dinner, we had a chance to visit the roof of the hotel, where there were spectacular views and several beehives that make honey for the hotel's breakfast buffet. We took photos, laughed a lot, and watched the sky change color as the sun went down.
This evening was the highlight of the trip for me. Making connections, building community: these things are of utmost importance to me at home, and I was grateful to be able to create a deep sense of bonding with the folks on the tour. Fortunately, the trip wasn't over yet — because I wasn't ready to part from the travel friends I'd made!
Heather on the roof's boardwalk.
​With Christina and the most amazing of guides, Monika